courtesy of By Nancy Harmon Jenkins

THE ROAST: Ingredients
3 pounds boneless pork loin, bones reserved (about 4 pounds total weight)
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt 1⁄2 teaspoon peppercorns
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1⁄2 teaspoon whole allspice
1⁄4 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons peanut or corn oil

THE SAUCE:
1 pint gooseberries, rinsed, topped and tailed
About 2 tablespoons brown sugar Salt and pepper to taste Watercress for garnish

Method

1. Stab meat here and there with a small skewer or knife. Set on a large sheet of parchment or waxed paper. Grind salt, peppercorns, bay leaf, allspice and fennel seeds together in a spice grinder. Pour powder into a dish, and stir in garlic and brown sugar. Rub spice mixture evenly over pork. Enclose in paper, then wrap in foil. Refrigerate 1 to 2 days.
2. When ready to cook, preheat oven to 300 degrees.
3. In a flameproof casserole large enough to hold meat and bones, heat peanut oil; brown bones on all sides, then set aside and reserve. Meanwhile, discard paper and foil; tie meat to form a neat cylinder. Pat roast dry, and then brown well on all sides. Pour off fat, then return bones to pan with meat. Cover and set in center of oven. Roast until a meat thermometer placed in the center of the roast measures 170 degrees; test at 1 hour. When meat is cooked through, transfer to a cutting board, cover with foil and set aside. Discard bones.
4. Skim fat from pan juices, which should measure about 1/2 to 3/4 cup. Add gooseberries and 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar to pan. Simmer, mashing berries as they change color and soften to a thick, creamy puree -about 5 to 7 minutes. Add remaining sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Slice meat, and arrange on a bed of watercress. Serve hot sauce alongside.